Flipsky Archives - Electric Skateboard HQ

On 18th July 2019, Flipsky announced the release of a new ESC FSESC 6.6 Mini and around the same time, they’ve also put up the new VX2 remote for preorder.

Dual FSESC 6.6 Mini ($229)

I think Flipsky needs no elaborative introductions as they are pretty well known for their VESC. For those who don’t know, they are amongst the top options when it comes to VESC, competing with the industry leader Focbox Unity. Many DIYer chose Flipsky for it’s budget friendlier price and instant availability. (Hey Enertion, am still waiting for my Unity..)

Dual FSESC 6.6 Mini is the mini version of their top of the line product – Dual FSESC 6.6 with heatsink. However, besides the smaller footprint (81mm x 77mm x 20mm), Mini has a few more changes:

1 extra UART port (2 in total).
Removed switch button.
And some upgrade on the more technical stuff like cables and MOSFET design.

Anyhow, here are the specs:

Hardware: V 6.6
Voltage: 8V – 60V (Safe for 3S to 12S LiPo) for the dual ESC
Voltage spikes may not exceed 60V
Current: Continuous 100A single, total 200A,
Instantaneous current 400A per single, total 800A for system instantaneous current.
5V 1.5A output for external electronics for single
3.3V 1A output for external electronics for single
Modes: DC, BLDC, FOC (sinusoidal)
Supported sensors: ABI, HALL, AS5047
6 shunts in a dual system. Each is measurable for the current.

You can check out the Dual FSESCS 6.6 Mini by clicking here.

VX2 Remote ($99 $79)

When it comes to remote, the old Flipsky’s VX1 was considered the best. It’s comfortable in hand, the throttle wheel has good travel, there is board-battery indicator, cruise control function, reverse mode & speed modes.

Well, Lacroix certainly agrees that VX1 was the best option as they uses VX1 in their Jaws and Nazares line-ups.

The new VX2 which is due to ship on 15th August are all that plus a screen for telemetry. The screen-on-the-top-of-the-remote set up reminds me of the R2 remote, which is a good design unlike the popular screen on the side of the remote set-up which is useless for left-handers.

You can check out the VX2 remote by clicking here.

In my Meepo NLS review, I mentioned that I have installed Flipsky FSESC Dual 4.20 plus into my NLS and it has completely unleashed the potential of the board.

Besides improving the smoothness of the acceleration and braking (they are both now perfectly smooth), Flipsky ESC also unleashed a stronger torque and hence faster acceleration.

Flipsky powered NLS now dusts Backfire G2T in a drag race. It’s not even a contest.

Drag Race: Flipsky powered NLS VS Turbo G2T

I’ve received a lot of message on how to install Flipsky into NLS. Though most are just asking about the settings, I decided to write the full tutorial for those who never installed a VESC prior to this. For those who are just looking for the VESC-tool settings that I used, just skip to the end of the post.

If you are not a fan of reading and want to see a 7 minutes silent video of the actual footage on how we install this, you’re in luck! Click the link below.

WARNING: Changing the ESC should void the manufacturer warranty as it pushes your board to a limit not intended by the manufacturer and may fry your parts. Do this at your own risk.

Parts I used:

From Flipsky:

Flipsky Dual FSESC4.20 plus
2.4G Remote with Receiver (or for a better experience, go for the VX1 remote.
XT60 Male Connectors Plugs x 1
Optional: Bluetooth Module 2.4G (I wish I have gotten it)

From Meepo:

Meepo NLS (Duh)
MR30 to Bullet connector adaptor (optional. you can direct solder VESC to motor cable if you choose to do so)

Miscellaneous:

Tools that were needed:

Soldering tools
Drills
VESC-tools installed on a Window PC

Steps summary:

Removing the stock ESC.
Installing the power button
Installing the power cable
Installing the hall sensors
Connecting the motor wires
Connecting the receivers
VESC-tool:
- Input setup Wizard. (Skip if using VX1)
- Motor Setting Wizard.
Tucking everything in and profit!

1. Removing the ESC:

Remove whatever screws is in your way and remove the stock ESC.

2. Installing the power button

Flipsky power switch is bigger than NLS’s, and the stock power button can’t be plugged into Flipsky ESC.

We drill a bigger hole for the Flipsky power switch.

3. Installing the hall sensor wires

NLS hall sensor doesn’t have a TMP wire

Flipsky FSESC receives a 6 pin connector for motor sensor while NLS hub motors use sensor connector with 5 pin head as it doesn’t have the temperature sensor.

We will have to convert the NLS hub sensor wires to a 6 pin sensor connector. As we don’t have an unused 6 pin sensor head lying around, we harvested the one that comes with Flipsky.

We have to change the connector from left(5pin), to the right(6pin)

4. Installing the power cable

After ascertaining the poles of the power battery power cable, we solder the XT60 (Male) connector to the power cable from VESC.

5. Connecting the motor wires

NLS hubs use MR30 connectors. You will have a lot of option to connect it to Flipsky ESC, including cutting the MR30 connector and solders the wires directly.

NLS motor use MR30 connector

We choose to put MR30 connector on to the Flipsky ESC because it will allow us to swap back to the stock ESC easily (and make comparison test easier)

We solder the motor wires in this arrangement:
From left to right, it should be Blue, Green, Yellow, then Yellow, Green, Blue.
Of course, place a shrink tube in to seal the connection when the solder was done.