Author: Paxson Lim

Posted on by Paxson Lim

Beginner’s guide to electric skateboard decks

For the non-skater who just arrived in the eskate scene, you might feel lost in selecting and comparing decks.

An eskate deck is basically just a longboard deck (or a skateboard deck). It’s helpful to understand all the features of a longboard deck so that you know what you’re looking at.

In this guide, I will try to be as comprehensive as possible in explaining all the features of a longboard deck and how those features are implicated on an electric skateboard.

Anatomy of a deck:

When it comes to decks, there is a longboard deck and there is a shortboard deck. The typical length of a longboard deck ranges somewhere between 33″ and 60″. They are obviously longer than the traditional skateboard (27″-32″).

Wheel base

The wheelbase is the distance between your board’s inner mounting holes. This distance is what determines how far apart your front and back wheels will be. Wheelbases measurements are typically between 13″ and 15″.

The wider the wheelbase, the more stable the board will feel. However, the wider the wheelbase also means the larger the turning radius.
Generally speaking, you should pick a wheelbase that is as narrow as you are comfortable with in order to maximize the turning ability.

Directional vs Symmetry

In example: Raptor 2 and Boosted Stealth

Directional boards are meant to have a forward facing side (nose) and a backward facing side (tail). The deck shape will generally make it clear which way should be forward and vice versa.

Directional boards are great for downhill boarding, carving and cruising. Symmetrical boards have the same feel no matter which way the board is facing. In the longboard world it is often used in freestyle and free riding style.

Having a motor means Eskate are always directional in purpose (unless you don’t mind riding in reverse gear or riding motor mount forward) but you can of course use whatever deck you want.

Kicktail

In example: Riptide R2

When you look at a regular skateboard, you will see kick tails on both ends. Their purpose is to let you lift one end of the board off of the ground so you can hop curbs, make quick turns, tail brake and do tricks.

When it comes to longboards, directional boards can have kick tails on just one end and on symmetrical boards, kick tails on both ends. They are a necessity on many freestyle boards. They’re really handy on cruiser boards as well.

There are a few noteworthy commercial Eskate with kicktail – Enertion Raptor 2, Boosted Mini and shortboards such as Riptides and other Chinese budget shortboards.

PS: When doing a DIY build, a kicktail practically forces the motor to be front mounted (like how a Boosted does.) This limits the size of the motor you can use.

  • Motor in front of the wheels
  • Motor behind the wheels

Wheel well/ cut out

Wheel wells and cutouts are there to prevent wheel bites. (When your wheel rubs the deck and throws you off the board.). They are important in eskate as we do use wheels that are a lot bigger than a traditional longboard.

A good design cut out allows your foot to be placed as near to the truck as possible. The closer your feet are to the trucks, the more responsive the control will feel.

Concave/ Shape

Flat skateboard decks give you extra room for your feet on the board. This is ideal for doing many tricks, as well as board walking.

In Eskate, flat deck is a pretty bad idea, you will find it difficult to find your footing.

Eg: Ownboard W1S, Wowgo 2s.

Convex boards have a deck that arches upwards, which is much different than other decks. This provide riders with a more instinctive foot placement, which is ideal for skaters who love downhill riding. They are more uncommon than most other boards.

It didn’t receive much love in Eskate world though.

Eg: Original Meepo v1.

The radial shape is the most common of all the deck shapes. It has a distinct U-shape curve. The level of deepness of the curve can vary between decks. All types of skaters prefer this deck shape because its concave gives you a lot better grip. This comes in handy for all kinds of skateboarding.

The progressive shape is basically a more intense adaptation of the radial concave. With this deck, you get an even more secure feel due to the wider base and rail walls.

Flat-cave, or tub concave, is when the rails are extended and angled from the deck. Flat-cave is much like a radial board but without the subtle curvature. You may be able to feel more energy shifts, but overall tub boards make for a more easygoing ride.

W-concave is similar to regular concave in many ways. It’s main function is to help keep your feet staying put on the board. It really gives you a lot of grip. It can be described as having two side-by-side concave sections. The W-concave feature can be a bit pricey. It comes on some pretty expensive boards.

Some says W-Concave gets in the way of kick pushing. Not something we need to worry about in an Eskate! Hurray!

Eg. Meepo V2.

Asymmetrical concave raises the deck rails up at different angles, ultimately giving the rider a boost of power through the heels. This is ideal for skaters who like to make a lot of turns or who do a lot of weaving in and out.

Board Flex

When it comes to different board flexes, there are many different levels of flex. Flex is dependent on materials used and amount of plies.
While more flex means better shock absorption, it can be unstable when riding at high speed, as the deck can become like a trampoline and throw you off the board.

The Loaded Vanguard deck used by the previous gen Boosted are known for it’s flex. The recent Meepo NLS also has one of the most flexible decks.

Meepo NLS with it’s crazy flex.

Stiff decks are great at maintaining stability at the highest speeds. However, will not do well on rough pavement, however. You will feel everything.

PS: In the DIY world, flex deck adds another layer of challenge as electronics, battery and component housing aren’t flexible.

Ply

Backfire Galaxy Deck, you can practically count the ply.

The thin layers of wood that are pressed tightly together to make the longboard deck is called the ply.

Instead of utilizing one piece of solid wood, many manufacturers opt for creating a super strong board by layering the wood in a cross-grain pattern. Most boards are not over 9-ply.
Typical skateboards are closer to 7-ply.

The ply number obviously affects the flex profile of a deck.

Camber-rocker

There is a curve running the length of your skateboard that determines the feel of the deck and the type of ride you get on it.

Longboard decks with a raised middle are known as camber longboards and when they have a dropped middle they are referred to as rocker longboards.

The angles are pretty subtle, but can still affect the level of flex of your deck.

While camber and flex seems to be in fashion, a rocker deck comes with some important benefit. The obvious advantage is lower ride height, giving a more stable ride.

Secondly, when accelerating and decelerating, rocker curve gives your foot something to push against, making speed changes more comfortable.

The notable eskate with rocker deck out there is the Meepo Classic, which realized all the advantages of a rocker deck and gives an addictive ride.

Meepo Classic

Mounts

The most common type of truck mounting you will find is the top-mount. Top-mounts are screwed onto the bottom of the deck to ensure that the trucks stay positioned under your feet at all times. This is the most popular mount style because it allows the perfect amount of control and leverage for a variety of skating styles.

A drop mount combines the characteristics of a top mount and a drop -though. You cannot see the truck from the top of the deck because it’s positioned into the deck instead of through the deck. With a drop mount, you will get less leverage than a top mount, but more leverage than a full drop-through.

Drop-through mounts are different than a traditional top-mount because you do not screw the hardware through mounting holes in order to attach the trucks. Instead, you drop the trucks through cut-outs made in both the nose and tail and attach them on the sides. We are seeing more and more longboards and cruisers with drop-through truck mounts. This mounting style make the deck not as responsive as a traditional top-mount, but you will get more stability.

Drop deck is not a mount type, I’ve included it here as it’s best explained by the same graphic.

A dropped deck is when the deck literally drops down in the middle, which makes the nose and the tail raised. The extremity of the drop can vary between decks. Due to the low center of gravity, boards with a dropped deck get better overall control and stability.

A double drop is when drop-through truck mounting is used in conjunction with a dropped deck. It’s important to select the right sized wheel diameter to counteract how low your board is. In doing so, you will prevent rail bite, which is when your board comes into contact with and “bites” the ground. This can be a dangerous event that you should strive to avoid.

Deck Material

Of course there is a variety of choice when it comes to choosing material for the deck.

Maple
Maple is a material that is commonly used in many wood working projects due to its grain pattern. This makes it a go-to choice for skateboard decks. Maple wood is known for withstanding the test of time, meaning it’s very sturdy and reliable. It can endure even the roughest skateboard riding.

Maple decks

Bamboo
Bamboo is a popular material for many things due to its incredibly light weight and flexibility, which is specifically ideal for skateboards. Bamboo skateboards are a perfect choice for someone looking for a board for commuting and cruising. It’s light weight makes it a breeze to carry.

Bamboo Deck of Meepo NLS

Carbon Fiber
By far the most expensive material option for a skateboard would be carbon fiber. Carbon fiber boards are often used as professional boards. They are made to help you easily maneuver around turns, as well as quickly boost you speed. To help reduce some weight, these boards are designed with a foam core.

Eg: 121C Aileron

Styles of longboard Deck

As different ride styles require a different set of features, longboard deck can be classified accordingly.

I think Tactics Board shop did a very good job walking through those deck styles, so I will just link to them here.

Freestyle

Good for tricks, getting around, more versatile

Features:

  • Camber (bouncy, lively carve)
  • Thin
  • Lightweight
  • Syemmtrical
  • Twin Kicktail

Examples:

  1. Loaded Tan Tien
  2. MFG Moonshine County Line

Freeride

Riding a lot of hills and lots of sliding, blending other style like downhill.

Characteristics: (A lot of similarity to downhill)

  • Fairly Stiff (9ply/ composite fiber glass maple)
  • Symmetrical (For riding switch)
  • long-wheel base (20-30 inch)
  • Have foot pockets/ Drops

Examples:

  1. Landyatchz Switchblade
  2. Rayne Vendetta
  3. Loaded Truncated Tesseract

How to Choose a Freeride Longboard Deck – Tactics.com

Downhill

Main aims is to maximized speed and keep control.

Characteristic: (A lot of similarities with Freeride deck)

  • Stiff (Stable)
  • Long-wheelbase (25-30inches)
  • Good concave

Examples:

  1. Sector 9 Downhill Division Series Longboards
  2. DB Robot special
  3. Rayne G-mack pro

Cruising/ Carving Longboard Deck

Easy to handle longboard to get you from point A to point B. Not designed with doing tricks or jumps in mind.

Characteristic:

  • Flexible (Vibration dampening, lively carvy bouncy feel, increase responsiveness)
  • Camber

Examples:

Mountain Board Deck

When you are going off-road, a good sturdy deck is needed.

Trampa deck is one of the most used deck for DIY off road build.

Made from re-enforced glass and plastic thermo composite, it is a strong deck that can stand up to abuse.

Some special decks

As Eskate became more popular, some decks that gear towards eskate has been made – in small scales.

Best example would be the HAYA deck, a DIY friendly integrated deck designed for builders.

It has 2 routed segment for battery array and Integrated cable routing built in. Helping the process of DIY build.

With companies like Loaded attempting to build Eskate specific deck (Motherboard is not, for now, a good attempt on that), there should eventually be a wider selection of deck which caters specifically to eskate.

I hope this helps!

For reference, here are some of the decks that are commonly used for builds and deck swap. Let me know if you think something else should be on this list!

Posted on by Paxson Lim

The Peak Review – Reborn from the ashes

Foreword and Introductions

Some of you might remember that back in 2016, a Kickstarter campaign for ‘World’s 1st Single-Dual Motor Switchable Electric Skateboard’ was launched. It’s called the Buffalo board. The project was successfully funded and delivered, but Buffalo the company fizzled out pretty soon after that.

At 2019, out of the ashes of Buffalo board, rises a new brand – The Peak.
The Peak utilized some of the design left over by Buffalo board and created a new product of their own. It was as if this was Buffalo reincarnated.

You shouldn’t assume they are the same product though, even though I never get to put my hand on a Buffalo, just by reviewing the ‘literature’, I found the similarity of both these products starts and ends with the look.

The Peak Review

This the marketed specs of The Peak:

  • Top Speed: 25mph (40kmh)
  • Range: 9mil (14.5km)
  • Weight: 17lbs (7.75kg)
  • Charge Time: 4.5hrs
  • Features: 2 belt motors, IP64 waterproof, Regenerative braking, handles up to 30% slope.
  • Price: 599USD with shipping included.

Build Quality

Packaging

The Peak came double boxed and cleanly packed. Nothing fancy, nothing flamboyant, just one practical package.

Deck

The Peak uses a deck made out of 7 layers of bamboo material with two layers fiberglass. I love the defined concave that this deck have, but is disappointed that it is actually a pretty stiff deck.

I have no problem with stiff deck, but I just think that it is wasteful to have a good flexible battery configuration and battery case yet didn’t make use of it. From my research, I think the old Buffalo has a pretty flexy deck.

‘Though the deck still has some flex to it, it’s still pretty stiff.

Component Enclosures and ESC

The enclosure of The Peak is the most defining feature of the board. It is designed to allow a huge array of 18650 batteries to flex, but unfortunately, as mentioned, it didn’t take good use of that.

There is a USB port on the enclosure, in case you fancy using your 17lbs board as a power bank.

I couldn’t recognize what ESC The Peak is using, but more on its performance later.

Wheels

The Peak use 83mm 85A wheels with an abec core. They are not the most comfortable wheels, but that the advantage of a belt drive isn’t it?
You can easily swap the wheels to flywheels of your fancy.

More on how the wheels impact the riding experience later.

Trucks

The Peak uses cloned Paris truck, which is my preferred version of Chinese generic truck. Outside of branded truck or Shredder truck, this cloned Paris is the best a Chinese manufacturer could pick.

It provides better maneuverability than another generic variant, and was pretty stable too.

Capability

Range

The Peak is rocking 10s2p Samsung 25R battery pack. That amounts to 5AH and 180wh.

It needs to, as the nature of using dual belt drive really eats up battery.
I would expect a 5AH to go at least 11miles(18km) with dual hubs but with The Peaks dual belt set up my range test ends at 9miles (14.5km).

The board has pretty negligible sag though, it still goes up to 18.5mph(30km) at the very last few minutes. Be careful on challenging the range though, as unlike other board which you can feel the battery drying up, this one just push till it can’t accelerate anymore. And being a dual belt drive it really can’t freeroll so don’t think about kick pushing back home.

*I weigh around 165lbs (75kg) and was riding in a mostly flat area in a warm climate. 

Speed

Hitting the marketed top speed 25mph/40kmh is not a problem. My top speed on the sports tracker shows exactly 25mph.

It’s not the faster board for acceleration, some belt drive does do better than that.

Torque

The Peak uses two 1200W Motor, and being a belt drive, it has no issue climbing hill.

Riding Experience:

Acceleration and Deceleration

The Peak allows you to change the acceleration and braking mode separately. Both have 3 different strength to choose from.

The control works alright, but it is definitely not the most refined control I have ever use. And it is pretty difficult to describe the flaw. I would say the flaw lies within the consistency of the control. Sometimes the acceleration comes pretty instant, sometimes it seems to have a delay. I never notice any delay with the braking though, always the acceleration, and especially when starting from a standstill.

The acceleration is definitely smooth enough, so even when the control doesn’t seem to be all that consistent, there wasn’t too much of a jolt and at no point, I am afraid of the board. It is pretty annoying though.

The smoothness of the braking largely depends on the strength setting. In the weakest mode, the braking is pretty tame, and the strongest mode, strong.

When applying the strong brake at a faster speed, sometimes the brake seems to bite and release in alternate succession, causing a few jerks before fully stopping. Again, this is not a consistent finding on every braking attempt. It’s not a big issue as you would already be bracing yourself before braking strongly, but it does take away from the experience.

Stability & Manoeuvrability

Stiff deck, low riding height with 83mm wheels makes The Peak a pretty stable board. I have no problem riding on top speed. (Or maybe just me getting better on an eskate?)

The board is pretty maneuverable, with the Paris truck clone, turning and carving are pretty comfortable. Nothing to write home about though.

Vibration

Belt drive’s had a distinct advantage over the hub wheels in the smoothness of rides as they have 2 real longboard wheel in place of 2 stiff hub motors.
This advantage, however, is something The Peak didn’t take advantage of right out the box. The stock 83mm wheels are just not that good, and despite not having stiff hub motors, the board still vibrate pretty bad on rough roads.

This is made worse as the deck, as I mention, is pretty stiff.

This, I am pretty sure, can be addressed by swapping over to better quality and bigger wheels. But it is up to you to do the switch.

Remote

Argh, this is by far the worst remote I ever used.

Having a dead man trigger is thoughtful, making it stiff and at an awkward angle is not. After pressing down hard on the trigger for half an hour, I felt as if my hand is gonna cramp.

The awkward placement of the dead man trigger in relation to the throttle dial also means I am unable to reach the full throttle with one hand as I am pushing down on the dead man trigger.

Remember I mention about the board not being consistent in control? Part of me wonders if that is due to the dead man trigger not engaged properly. I have no way of testing that, pretty frustrating situation.

The remote has telemetry on it, telling you the speed and allowing you to change speed modes. It has a calibration setting for it but I have no idea what it does. I played around with it and nothing happened. Can’t find any instruction on the manual either.

In short, this is a bad remote design. It’s usable, but just… uncomfortable.

Customer Service

The Peak is pretty new to the scene and pretty unknown even to me even after some research. They offer a 3-month repair warranty and they do not entertain a refund.

They promise to provide customer service over email, or you can reach them via Facebook.
If you purchase it via online retailer EskateboardPark, they too will offer their after-sale service.

Verdict

When I see The Peak, I see a board with a lot of wasted potentials.
It didn’t use a flex deck to take advantage of its battery and enclosure set up; it also didn’t use good quality wheels to take advantage of the belt drive system.

The flaws in control and remote is not deal breaker, but pretty annoying.

All in all, the board from top to bottom, are pretty average.

It is a good base for DIY though, imagine what you can do with the flexible enclosure and battery packs. hmmm.

Click here to checkout The Peak board here.

Posted on by Paxson Lim

How to: Installing Flipsky FSESC Dual 4.20 plus on Meepo NLS

In my Meepo NLS review, I mentioned that I have installed Flipsky FSESC Dual 4.20 plus into my NLS and it has completely unleashed the potential of the board.

Besides improving the smoothness of the acceleration and braking (they are both now perfectly smooth), Flipsky ESC also unleashed a stronger torque and hence faster acceleration.

Flipsky powered NLS now dusts Backfire G2T in a drag race. It’s not even a contest.

Drag Race: Flipsky powered NLS VS Turbo G2T

I’ve received a lot of message on how to install Flipsky into NLS. Though most are just asking about the settings, I decided to write the full tutorial for those who never installed a VESC prior to this. For those who are just looking for the VESC-tool settings that I used, just skip to the end of the post.

If you are not a fan of reading and want to see a 7 minutes silent video of the actual footage on how we install this, you’re in luck! Click the link below.

WARNING: Changing the ESC should void the manufacturer warranty as it pushes your board to a limit not intended by the manufacturer and may fry your parts. Do this at your own risk.

Parts I used:

From Flipsky:

From Meepo:

Miscellaneous:

Tools that were needed:

Steps summary:

  1. Removing the stock ESC.
  2. Installing the power button
  3. Installing the power cable
  4. Installing the hall sensors
  5. Connecting the motor wires
  6. Connecting the receivers
  7. VESC-tool:
    • Input setup Wizard. (Skip if using VX1)
    • Motor Setting Wizard.
  8. Tucking everything in and profit!

1. Removing the ESC:

Remove whatever screws is in your way and remove the stock ESC.

2. Installing the power button

Flipsky power switch is bigger than NLS’s, and the stock power button can’t be plugged into Flipsky ESC.

We drill a bigger hole for the Flipsky power switch.

3. Installing the hall sensor wires

NLS hall sensor doesn’t have a TMP wire

Flipsky FSESC receives a 6 pin connector for motor sensor while NLS hub motors use sensor connector with 5 pin head as it doesn’t have the temperature sensor.

We will have to convert the NLS hub sensor wires to a 6 pin sensor connector. As we don’t have an unused 6 pin sensor head lying around, we harvested the one that comes with Flipsky.

We have to change the connector from left(5pin), to the right(6pin)

4. Installing the power cable

After ascertaining the poles of the power battery power cable, we solder the XT60 (Male) connector to the power cable from VESC.

5. Connecting the motor wires

NLS hubs use MR30 connectors. You will have a lot of option to connect it to Flipsky ESC, including cutting the MR30 connector and solders the wires directly.

NLS motor use MR30 connector

We choose to put MR30 connector on to the Flipsky ESC because it will allow us to swap back to the stock ESC easily (and make comparison test easier)

We solder the motor wires in this arrangement:
From left to right, it should be Blue, Green, Yellow, then Yellow, Green, Blue.
Of course, place a shrink tube in to seal the connection when the solder was done.

  • we cut the bullet connector
  • and solder wire to wire
  • This is the arrangement. Blue Green Yellow, Yellow Green Blue.

6a. Connecting the receiver (For Nano Remote)

This is pretty straight forward, connect the receiver to the VESC. You should plug into Channel 1.

6b. Connecting the receiver (For VX1 remote)

Plug everything according to your ESC version. You can refer to a photo from Flipsky’s website.

Solder the white wire to the red power cable.

7. VESC setting

Connect your Flipsky ESC to a Window PC via a USB cable.
Run VESC-tools and update into the correct firmware version.

7a) Input setup Wizard.

Run the input setup Wizard to configure your remote.
(VX1 remote doesn’t need you to do this)

7b) Input setup Wizard.

Run Motor Setting Wizard.

Motor Type: FOC
Motor Current Max: 40A
Motor Current Max Brake: -30A
Battery Current Max: 30A
Battery Current Max Regen: -10A

Battery Cutoff Calculator:
Cells: 10
Hit Apply. Next.

Sensor Mode: Hall Sensor

FOC Settings:
Click RL -> Click λ -> Click Apply, Next.

FOC Hall sensor setting:
Click Apply, Click Next.

Alright! You are done!
Happy riding!

Check out our Sponsor Flipsky for your DIY needs:
https://flipsky.net/

Check out our article review on Meepo NLS:
https://electricskateboardhq.com/meepo-nls-next-level-sht-almost/

Posted on by Paxson Lim

A Comprehensive Guide to Chinese Budget Eskates

It was over a year ago when I wrote about my findings after diving deep into the realm of Chinese Electric Skateboards. A lot has changed since then, and yet a lot also remains the same.

In 2019, anyone who is looking for a sub $500 entry level electric skateboard will find that segment of the market being dominated by new Chinese brands which provide the best value to money preposition.

Just to prove my point, try naming to me an electric skateboard under $500 that’s not made from a Chinese company.

… Acton Blink S?

Okay fine, maybe one. But Acton Blink S is just another Chinese manufactured product behind an American logo that has customer service that isn’t significantly better than that of established Chinese brands.

But where should you look? There are so many of them on the market. Anyone who is not already in the loop might find trouble separating the rubbish from the legit and the gem.

Lots of options for example, on Aliexpress.

Inclusion Criteria and Method

It’s a long process trying to get a grip on this market. I’ve reached out to all of the more reputable players in this market to request review units.

The criteria to be included is quite simple:

  1. Is an electric longboard
  2. Priced under $500
  3. Can be trusted in Post-sales services

The brands that look to fulfil that criteria are:

  • Meepo Classic
  • Backfire G2 2019
  • Wowgo 2s
  • Ownboard W1s
  • Verreal F1
  • Teamgee H5, H6 and H9 (often under $500 after discount)
  • Yeeplay M2S, H2B
  • AEBoard AE1
  • Teemo boards
  • Jackzoom
  • Panther x3s
  • Harvoo

Notable exclusions of this criteria:

  • Backfire G2 (Because it has been discontinued, and the G2s and G2T are above the cut off price) (Andddd it’s back!)
  • Koowheels (Although I don’t have a high opinion of the Koowheels, but the reason of exclusion is the cut off price)
  • I-Wonder – More of a manufacturer, I am unsure of it’s 1 to 1 post-sales service quality.
  • Winboard’s- Big OEM manufacturer attempted to get into retail. Their retail line-ups are all priced above the cut-off $500 price tag.
  • Maxfinds – not a brand that’s known for quality. Performance is pretty lacking.

How did it go? Well, most of the included brands agreed to have their boards reviewed.

Teemo stopped replying to emails after a few to and fro, which is fair.

Jackzoom, Panther x3s and Harvoo never replied to my initial and the follow-up ‘hellos’.
I think it’s pretty safe to say that if they don’t even bother to reply to a blogger, they won’t reply to regular customers – and hence failed criteria number 3.

So here is the summary of the selection:

Before we began

It is helpful to recognize that most of the Chinese vendors at this segment are aggregators who assembles parts available in the market to build their own product.

This results in many of these boards riding or even looking very similar.

This is not any more obvious and impactful than the choice of ESC. As this directly effects how the board controls.

At this point in time, all the boards in this list use one of these two: ESC -‘LingYi’ ESC or Hobbywing ESC.

LingYi ESC vs Hobbywing ESC

  • LiYing ESC
  • Hobbywing ESC

LingYi ESC has the biggest market share at this point in time.

A lot of big manufacturers will have LingYi in its ESC, tuned and tinkered to their liking of course.

Generally speaking, the profile of the LingYi ESC is a harsher acceleration and stronger braking. But it is very difficult to assume a boards behavior just by knowing it’s using the LingYi ESC, as brands do tinker it to suit their idea of good speed control. In doing so, this will change them quite a bit.

Eg, Winboards introduces an aggressive speed ramp in the control, making it less difficult for absolute beginners, but may frustrate those who like a precise control.
Meepo use of LingYi is mainly to maximise on the acceleration and braking, in order to make a more aggressive and thrilling ride.

For the last year, many brands have moved away from LingYi ESC to the HobbyWing ESC.

The notable brands that use a variation of LingYi ESC currently are: Meepo NLS, Yeeplay M2s, Original Backfire G2, Winboard, Teamgee.

Some will tell you the rise of HobbyWing ESC is the best thing that has happened to budget electric skateboards.

HobbyWing ESC saw its first international debut when Wowgo 2s started using it. (Or did Ownboard do it first? Man… these things are hard to keep track of.)

If a board uses this remote… then you know you have Hobbywing ESC.

Hobbywing ESC gains a quick popularity for its amazing performance. It’s smooth in both acceleration and braking, the control is precise, there are no latency issues and the control behavior is consistent throughout different speeds.

Some say it is even better than the Boosted board… that’s how good it is.

Some companies tune the Hobbywing ESC to get the most out of their board, but we generally can expect similar behavior on the Hobbywing ESC.

The notable brands that use a variation of Hobbywing ESC currently are – Meepo Classic, Backfire G2s, Wowgo, Ownboard, Verreal, AEBoards and higher end stuff like Exway X1 are using a custom version of it too.

But I digress, now the boards.

I’ve reviewed most of the boards. Now this will be the summarized thoughts about them and how well they fare against each other.

If you would like to learn more about them, there are always the in-depth full reviews that I’ve published.

The list is in random order (maybe).

PS: ElectricSkateboardHQ do have discount codes for most of the boards below in the discount code page.
However, it’s advisable to check if there is any ongoing promotion available before using our codes as special festive promotions will often offer steeper discounts than that of our discount codes.

Meepo Classic

Obviously the newer stuff is going to fare better than a dated product.

For those who don’t know, Meepo is the current leading budget brand that pioneered the Chinese budget board movement. Since its debut in 2017, MeepoBoard is now a mature brand that has refined its product. Their customer service, though not award winning, is reasonably good and serviceable.

Meepo Classic just came out in early 2019, it aims to replace the last gen Meepo V2, and it’s my favorite budget electric skateboard right now.

I think Meepo picked all the right parts when putting together the Meepo Classic.

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I especially love the gorgeous double-drop deck which allows a very comfortable, stable low ride. Meepo’s shredder truck provides a good balance between maneuvrebility and stability and is another strong point for the board too.

With all of that said, the best move the Classic made undoubtedly is the switch to HobbyWing ESC. Though some people will miss the aggressive ride of the old LingYi ESC, most people will find a relaxing, smooth ride of HobbyWing ESC. This is a welcoming change – especially for beginners who are looking for their first board.

Click here to read full review of the Meepo Classic.

Use our promo code “ESHQ” to get 15 USD off your Meepo purchase.

Backfire G2 2019

While I was working on this post, Backfire updated the Backfire G2.

While I never tried the newer version of the G2, I do have the G2T and the original G2. And I would say the updated Backfire G2 2019 is probably one of the best budget board money can buy.

Compare to most budget boards, the new Backfire G2 has the advantage of having bigger 5AH battery, and much better polish. The deck Backfire uses, in my opinion, are inferior to Meepo V2/ Meepo Classics but much better than the flat deck that Wowgo 2S and Ownboard W1S uses.

It also uses the Hobbywing which promises smooth acceleration and braking. Sadly, unlike its pricier siblings, G2 won’t come with the caliber trucks.

Smaller 83mm wheels might be a deal-breaker for those who have to dealt with poor and bumpy road. Although you can technically put on the bigger 96mm hub sleeve on G2’s hubs, the width of its truck wasn’t long enough and you will risk wheel bites. You can solve that by swapping in the longer Caliber II trucks, but at that point, you would be better off by paying extra 200$ and go for the G2T.

Affiliated discount link for Backfire Boards (no discount for G2 though)

Verreal F1

Verreal is one of the newer brands that tried to mimic the success of MeepoBoard, and it is doing quite well at that.

Verreal has a good track record in customer service and continue to offer good price to value.

Its latest product and current flagship, Verreal F1, is one of the better takes on a budget board.

Its use of a micro-drop deck and Hobbywing ESC results in a very responsive, agile, and zippy ride. It’s a lot of people’s favorite budget board and after putting it through the paces myself, it’s easy to understand why.

The low-light of the Verreal F1 is that the board’s polish and finishing is still leaving a lot to be desired. F1 also does cheap out a little bit on small parts, such as the bearings.

Though in exchange, the board usually is asking a bit less… especially after discounts as compared to other boards on the list!

Click here to read the full review of the Verreal F1.

Use code ‘EskateHQ’ to get $45 off

Ownboard W1S

As an OEM manufacturer that joined the retail game, Ownboard has a huge advantage right from the get go.

Almost from the get go, Ownboard built with higher quality parts and used good polish. Its customer service is generally considered good.

Ownboard W1S is one of the better iterations of the ‘typical’ budget board. It uses Hobbywing ESC which allows great control and it uses Paris-cloned trucks that offer great maneuverability. Ceramic bearings and its special foam-padded ‘EVA grip tape’ are the other highlights of the board.

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The only weak point of this board would probably be the flat deck. The 6 ply maple +2 ply bamboo deck offer a fair amount of flex, but a little bit of concave would make it a lot better.

What makes Ownboard W1S a good deal is the option to go with 6AH Samsung 30Q battery – for just US$457.00.
If by any chance a flat deck is what you are looking for (wut?), or you are going to deck swap any time down the line, Ownboard W1s is a very good choice.

Click here to read full review of the Ownboard W1S

Use code ‘OWNBOARDHQ’ to get 5% off

Wowgo 2S

Wowgo is the first competitor of Meepo and made Chinese budget brands a thing.

It has successfully shook the earlier image of a scrappy brand with weird taste in marketing and established itself as a major player in the budget board segment.

Product quality, polish and customer service of Wowgo are all good now.

The Wowgo 2S is especially significant, being the product that elevated the budget segment to another level. Being the first to make the Hobbywing ESC famous, Wowgo 2s was dubbed the Boosted killer for its comfortable control that rivals the top brands.

Today, it is still among the best budget boards on the market. But unfortunately, one-upped by its doppleganger Ownboard W1s that uses slightly better parts in the deck, bearings and trucks.

The differences are not all that significant and Wowgo 2S is still a good choice if you can get it at a better price.

Click here to read full review of the Wowgo 2s

Use code ‘WOWGOHQ’ to get 10% off

Yeeplay M2S, H2B

Yeeplay M2S

Yeeplay M2S is another new brand coming out from the same mold of Meepo, Wowgo and Ownboard. Heck, even its products look like it came out of the same mold as the original Meepo, Wowgo and Ownboards.

The company is still very young, and there is still much speculation as to how it will handle post-sale service. The good thing is – there aren’t any complaints heard about this brand so far – and as usual, the earlier customers would usually be treated royally.

Yeeplay M2S itself is a valid option of a budget board. It uses one of the broader decks with good concave, making it a very comfortable ride. The use of Paris-cloned trucks allow the board to be maneuvreble and turny.

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However it opted for ‘LiYing’ ESC, which has a more aggressive control. This caters better to specific crowds, but beginners are unlikely to favor it much. And hence making other boards on this list better alternatives.

Yeeplay recently released a belt drive ‘H2B’, which could be the only option for someone looking for a budget belt drive board.

I did not review the board, but performance could be postulated through the part used.
LiYing ESC promised a more aggressive acceleration and braking. Using the same deck as Ownboard W1S means enough flex, but too bad no concave.

Yeeplay H2B

The belt drive H2B should provide better torque than hub boards, but likely will handicap on the range.
Refer to our short guide on drive train to learn more about belt vs hub.

If you are planning to buy a Yeeplay, perhaps you are digging that exotic grip tape. Just be informed that the priced listed on the website at this point in time is not inclusive of a delivery fee.

Click here to read full review of the Yeeplay M2S.

Use code YeeplayHQ for 25USD off

AEBoard AE1/ AE2/ AF

AEBoard made a splash entry in to the market with boards that offer a lot of batteries for the price that it’s asking.

As it is the case for Yeeplay, AEBoard too is very new to the scene. No precedent can be known on how they handle customer complaints. Recently, however, I was able to help an unhappy customer get his purchase refunded, so I at least know my readers will be taken care of.

AEBoard AE1

The AE1 basically tries to offer as much value as possible while asking for as little as possible. The biggest ‘Wow’ factor here is the use of 10s3p battery while only asking for the entry level $430.

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The use of broad micro-drop deck with good concave – plus the use of Hobbywing ESC – makes AE1 a very comfortable ride.

The base level 10s3p 20R Samsung battery is less impressive as initially assumed though. Basically, it’s performance is only equal to the $457 Ownboard W1S with a 10S2p Samsung 30Q battery – same performance with the extra weight of 10 batteries.

However, the biggest downside of all would definitely be the stiffness of the deck reinforced by the board length aluminium enclosure below the deck. It has zero gives. You know you are stepping on steel immediately as you step onto the board. This result in god-awful vibration when riding on a less than perfect road.

And, being a new company, the packaging and finishing of AEBoard is pretty raw.

All in all, AE1 has the most amount of battery to for the price it’s asking and is definitely a good base for future DIY tinkering. For someone who doesn’t mind extra-steel-like-stiff deck (it’s REALLY STIFF), and is looking for range, AE1 should be the board to check out. You can even upgrade the battery to a Panasonic 9.6AH battery for 25mile (40km) range (or Sanyo for even more range.)

Click here to read full review of the AEboard AE1.

Click to receive 9.99USD off AEBOARD (Affiliated)

While I was working on this piece, AEBoard launched a few new boards which is creatively named AE2 and AF. (Chinese market move so fast, I can barely catch up).

While AE2 seems to be a Wowgo 2S/ Ownboard W1S clone, AF is worth paying attention to as it has some very practical features

Ae Board AE2 Electric Skateboard
AE2, tell me if it doesn’t look like Wowgo 2s or Ownboard W1S

AEBoard AF

While I have not personally reviewed AF, I certain would suggest anyone looking for a budget board to consider it.

Reason? While most of the parts used in AF are old news, it is the only budget board in this list that allows hot swappable battery. On top of that, the battery that it’s carrying has the standard 4AH, 144wh capacity.

The advantage of hot swappable battery over bigger battery pack is, obviously, is the weight – You don’t need to carry the batteries that you don’t plan to use.

Hot swappable battery

Plus, this definitely solves the ultra-super-stiff deck complaints that I have on the AE1. Basically, I think of it as Wowgo 2s with concave deck plus hot-swappable battery. AF is definitely worth considering over AE2, Wowgo 2s, and the W1s.

Click to receive 9.99USD off AEBOARD (Affiliated)

Teamgee H5, H6, H9

Similar to Ownboard, Teamgee is another manufacturer turned retailer.

Just like the Ownboard, Teamgee maintains a certain standard in their products and customers care since day 1. That said, Teamgee is still young in the international scene and though there has been no bad news about the customer service so far, we are yet to see how well its’ post-sale service stands when some serious complaint comes in.

Unlike Ownboard however, Teamgee is not a follower of the generic Chinese budget board trend. It has a slim body design that hides all of the electronics inside the decks.

As a result, the board looks very much like a regular long board to non-prying eyes.

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To cater to beginners, Teamgee also introduced heavy filtering to control input. This is done to soften the speed changes, however it also causes a noticeable delay between control input and the boards reactions.

This is done to cater to beginner crowd, who might find precise or zappy control intimidating. Many people will, however, be frustrated with the lag and the weaker acceleration.

Both the H5 and H6 are beautifully designed and give a reasonably good skating experience. H6 with the pintail deck has a very surfy feel and H5 with the broad dropdown deck has a stable ride.

Just be informed that stiff deck, relatively weak performance and voltage sags are what you have to be able to put up with when dropping $500 on these boards.

One more thing, their price on Amazon is somehow cheaper.

Click here to read full review of the Teamgee H6.

Click here to read full review of the Teamgee H5 by Samuel James.

In the end:

Even after trying the boards back to back to back, it is sometimes hard to tell the differences between two boards.

As a reviewer, my recommendations are based on the average taste of an average eskater but as any other personal purchase, personal preference often trumps everything else.

Hopefully with all of the information provided here, and the vetting done to screen out questionable brands, this can help you with your purchasing decision.

PS: If you are looking for boards beyond the $500 price range, we also have a list of recommended electric skateboards at all price range.

For those who are from a European country, you can choose to shop from a local dealer – Speedio. Speedio is an Electric Skateboard re-seller based in the Czech Republic. While you do pay a little premium, they offer a 2-year warranty, local support, and fast 2-5 days shipping.

Posted on by Paxson Lim

Meepo NLS – Next Level Sh!t? Almost.

Foreword and Introductions

As we all certainly know, Meepo has been the most dominant force in the budget eskate segment ever since their founding in 2017.

While they are practically unrivaled in the budget segment, their successes are nearly confined to the sub $500 price range.

Meepo tried to break free from this price confinement, when they announced Meepo NLS on January 2019 after lots of teaser and marketing effort leading up to it.

For Meepo, there is a lot of weight riding on the success of NLS.

Though they had sold higher-priced AWD GT to torque-addict, the success of NLS means a lot more to Meepo as it is the product that they designed for mass appeal – and it might just decide if they can break out from the entry-budget level into a higher priced market.

With the strategic importance of the product, a lot of effort is put into the design of the product.

Comparing to all other lines of Meepo products, NLS truly separates itself from looks to rides. Those differences will become evident as we walk you through the board.

Meepo NLS Review

This the marketed specs of Meepo NLS:

  • Top Speed: 26mph (42kmh)
  • Range: 14mil (22.5km)
  • Weight: 16lbs (7.2kg)
  • Charge Time: 2.5hrs
  • Features: 2 hub motors, weatherproof, Regenerative braking, handles up to 30% slope.
  • Price: 599USD with shipping included.

Build Quality

Deck

The most distinctive features that separate Meepo NLS with other board has to be the deck.

Meepo set out to create a super flexible deck, and the bamboo + fiberglass deck deliver just that. You will instantly notice the flex and bounciness when you set your foot on it.

If you are a big fan of the flexible deck, this will suit your taste. It makes a fun ride.

Although, Meepo has chosen to run the cable along the top side of the deck underneath the grip tape. It does not affect the ride in anyways, but you can argue that it is a bit of an eyesore – a blemish on an otherwise excellent and polish product.

Component Enclosures and ESC

Gone are the generic enclosure as Meepo uses a new plastic enclosure. It’s pretty and with a heat sink attached.

The best part about this enclosure is the button to show battery percentage; a godsend when you are charging the board.

There is a USB port too, but I bet most of us wouldn’t be using our 17lbs Eskate as portable power bank any time soon.

Wheels

Meepo NLS goes experimental by using huge 100mm wheels.

The front wheel is 78A, and they felt pretty good.

The 100mm hub motors have swappable urethane and are not yet listed for sale on the Meepo website.

I clearly can’t comment on the long-term durability of the hub, but what I do know is that if you are unlucky, or dumb enough to ride on sharp stones, it can only take the first acceleration and some bad luck to chipped the hub.

I peel that piece off and continue on, and so far, the hub sleeves have held up well.

Trucks

For the trucks, the Meepo NLS uses the Shredder trucks, which is a clone of Bear Kodiak trucks. (Of course, it’s not a forged truck like the bears truck is.)

I use to said that Shredder truck is my favorite budget truck, and that still holds true. It allows the use of tall barrel bushing. I find even in stock setting, Shredder truck gave a better return to center and are more springy than any non-branded trucks.

In fact, I would consider swapping all my budget board electric skateboard to shredder truck, that the extent of how much I like it.

Capability

Range

Meepo NLS is rocking a 10s2p 25R battery.
That’s a 5.0AH 180Wh battery pack that set to give you 14 miles or 22.5km of range. My range test falls abit short of the mark and just gets me to 11.8miles or 19km.

Good thing is, there is minimum voltage sag and the board stays fun until almost the very end.

PS: As a rule of thumb in estimating range, use the formula -> watt hour/10 = expected range in km.
*I weigh around 165lbs (75kg) and was riding in a mostly flat area in a warm climate. 

Speed

Hitting the marketed top speed 26mph/42kmh is not a problem. My top speed on the sports tracker shows a high speed of 27mph (43.6kmh).

I was not comfortable riding at top speed on NLS, so testing the high speed is a bit of a challenge. I will get into that later.

Torque

The Meepo NLS’s uses dual 400W hub motors.

Generally, the bigger the wheel, the weaker the torque. NLS can handle most inclines during our standard stop-and-go test; it still passes our standards at a 15% graded incline.

Riding Experience:

Acceleration and Deceleration

The Meepo NLS has four speed modes:

  1. Beginner mode with a top speed of 10mph/16kmh
  2. Eco mode with a top speed of 15mph/ 25kmh
  3. Expert mode with a top speed of 25mph/ 40kmh
  4. Pro mode with a top speed of 25mph/ 40kmh

While some Meepo line-up such as the Classic has begun to switch over to Hobbywing ESC, Meepo NLS still uses the ubiquitous ‘LingYi’ Electronic Speed Controller that can also be found on the Yeeplay M2s, Panther X3S etc.

The behavior of ‘LingYi’ ESC is pretty well known, and it has received a minor update as of recent.

Let’s talk about the acceleration first.

The acceleration of the first two modes is pretty gentle, catering to the beginners and for those who like casual riding.

The majority of riders will spend their time in the 3rd expert mode. It unlocks the top speed of 25mph(40kmh) but will only slowly accelerate up to that.
As compared to the previous versions, the expert mode seems to be toned down a bit in its aggressiveness.

The 4th pro mode is very aggressive, but yet smoother compares to the last generation. The old pro mode is not for me, too aggressive, but I am comfortable riding on the new pro mode now.

All in all, the behavior of this ‘LingYi’ ESC can be described as aggressive, reasonably smooth, and thrilling.

The thing I don’t like about the acceleration is that there is a latency between your throttle input and the response. The acceleration feels like a wave of force that ‘arrives’ after you call for it with your remote.

It gives a sudden initial big push that felt ‘fast’ yet in a drag race; it doesn’t transform to a faster pick up as the initial torque is not sustained.

Some like the thrilling start, but most don’t.

How about the braking?

The unique part of this updated ‘LingYi’ ESC is the ability for you to adjust braking power.

I’ve developed a taste for strong braking recently, and Meepo’s braking is where I want it to be. However, the braking curve is more abrupt, unlike the smoothness of the newest Hobbywing ESC or a VESC.

The strongest braking is really powerful, almost as if you are engaging the ABS braking system on a car. It feels like the wheel is going to stop to a slide, but it doesn’t. This certainly cuts down the stopping distance.

If you are not up for strong braking, you can switch to a weaker braking mode by holding the brake and pressing on the power button.

In summary, with ‘LiYing ESC’ the control of Meepo NLS is, at best, a B+. It is still miles ahead of some last generation control, but with the newest generation Hobbywing ESC (those with Turbo mode) behaving outstanding in everything from torque, to smoothness, to braking, ‘LiYing ESC’ can’t help but feeling half generation behind.

Stability & Maneuverability

Meepo NLS is fun in slow cruising. The maneuvrability is as good as expected with the use of shredder truck.

Carving on NLS is fun.

You will have less worry going through huge bumps as the 100mm wheels roll over everything. Stability however, is not a strong suit for the NLS.

100mm wheels mean you are riding pretty high off the ground. That plus a bouncy deck, soft stock bushing means the NLS felt a bit wobbly and unstable in top speed.

I don’t think this is an over-the-top, top-speed board, even when 26mph (42kmh) felt too fast and unsafe on NLS. Things improved dramatically; however once swapping over to a harder and shorter bushing. As shredder bushing are extra tall (20mm) to allow trucks to lean and turn more, it adds to the instability and wobbliness in high speed.

Changing those back to a shorter Orangatang Nipple works wonder for me and allows me to ride comfortably at top speed. I strongly suggest everyone do the same unless you weigh like a feather.

Vibration

The best-selling point for Meepo NLS is undoubtedly its ability to handle poor roads. 100mm wheels with thick urethane sleeves plus flexy deck create an amazing vibration dampening system.

It definitely scores an A+ here, even better than some belt-driven boards!

For those who are wary of road condition, NLS got your back. Be it cobblestone, poorly paved road, cracks or those tactile paving on footpaths, 100mm means Hakuna Matata.

It can even go over rough speed bumps!

Don’t try this with your 96mm wheels. It can’t go over.

Remote

NLS purchase came with an NR remote. I don’t have one with me so that I can’t comment on that. While it looks funny, it is pretty practical with the flashlight attached on the tip.

For those who don’t like the NR remote, rest assure that NLS does still come with the familiar V2 remote.

It has an ergonomic design and is comfortable in hand.
The soft touch plastic gave the remote a premium feel.

You can change between speed mode by a short press on the power button and can similarly change the braking settings by a quick press on the power button while holding the brake.

Ultimately, there were no disconnection issues and is overall, a pretty decent remote.

Customer Service

Before we get into the final verdict, let’s talk about Meepo’s customer service.

Generally speaking, Meepo’s has one of the better customer service teams among the budget brands.  You can reach them via Facebook, Wechat, or email and even some of their brand ambassadors can help you solve your problem.

However, being the best-selling budget board brands means they have a lot more customers to serve and from time to time experience lapses in their customer service.

Most of the time, people who need help eventually get through to them, and even when they reply slow. They always try to do the right things by the customers.

The most valuable part about buying the Meepo is the Meepo community. Every potential issue will be exposed, and a solution found by its community members. Some weird rattling noise? Someone who had that problem knows the exact solution. Want to do some DIY upgrade? Chances are there is already a guide or Facebook post about it.

That’s why I have no trouble recommending Meepo as a brand.

Verdict

Meepo NLS is the most interesting Meepo product so far.

Breaking away from generic parts and general riding experience, NLS is trying something different with super flexible deck, giant 100mm hubs, and quirky but hopefully practical remote.

With NLS, Meepo has reached a level where it is overall a really good board; therefore, what is lacking will definitely stand out. A better ESC or even better, a VESC would have perfected both the control and the performance of the board. And more thoughts on the riding experience would see the board shipped with a shorter bushing as the default setting.

I know it as fact, as my Flipsky 4.20 plus VESC equipped Meepo NLS with purple nipples is freaking perfect.

Good effort Meepo, maybe do a Gen 2 soon!

Check out NLS at MeepoBoard site by clicking here.

If you do decide to buy a Meepo, use our promo code “ESHQ” to get 15 USD off. Not only will it help us, but it will tag your purchase as an ESHQ customer and may even get you some preferential treatment in the process! =P